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Robert Adams Victor Patent Compensating, Adjustable & Silent door spring No 336.

5/12/2017

2 Comments

 
Here is another Robert Adams I worked on a while back at St John the Evangelist, Old Couldson. As can be seen from the pictures I took this is an early Robert Adams floor spring, as stated before each one is individually marked and the number on this one being reasonably low at only 336 (I wonder where number 1 is)
Picture
Picture
You can see there were two more Robert Adams door springs that appear to have long since been removed or moved (the ones I worked on could be them) and all that is left is an oil stain on the flagstones.

Any guesses Jess why the cup was formed at the end of the carriage?

Update: The 336 may in fact be a model/size/strength number as there is another number on the box which I now feel maybe the serial number.
Further update: The 336 is definitely a model number, the model I worked on is still early however as it has not yet been named the 'Crown Victor.'

Here are the model numbers which are associated with door width, thickness etc:

No 335, 336, 337 these models all have checks, the model numbers for this closer without checks are 330, 331, 332 this floor spring has further identifiers associated with it, these being B, C, D, E and F.

2 Comments
Jess the door closer doctor
5/13/2017 07:52:50 am

Hello Rod/MFS,

Loved seeing the pics here of the Robert Adams compensating floorspring,

The question about the cup at end of spring, (the red thing on end of spring) 2 things come to mind,

1, noise reduction as door opened and closed to prevent spring coils from contacting the inner sides of the carriege,

2, keep spring from rotating around when you increase or decrease tension.

Sorry not seen you online lately, been busy with friend's cars and other stuff,

Hope to hear from you soon, hope my asnswer to cup question has helped in figuring out what the purpose for red cup on end of spring,

-Jess the door closer doctor

Reply
Rod/MFS link
5/13/2017 02:51:00 pm

Dear Jess,

I am really upset I am not online more these days, but what with accusations and threats of "passing off" to the switching off of my computer while writing an article on floor springs/history/inventors for wikipedia/the world/google I do not know what to do, nor where to turn for the best, I guess I will eventually be pushed to folding MFS/I will fold.

I feel no matter where I turn and whatever I try to do someone out there is making sure I do not proceed to being a success at this (the heritage/vintage/recycling of floor springs door closers).

But before I possibly go I will tell you why I sat one end of the spring in the cup:

1. None availability of (original parts and lack of funds to get the same spec parts manufactured). The original spring is made from square section as most of Robert Adams springs are (most, not all) and these square section springs are much stronger than the round section type I have used. The result is the spring I used will float about if not trapped in the cup because it is weaker. I managed to get a similar strength "feel" by putting another spring on the inside (if you look closely you should just be able to make it out) so in combination they are similar to the square section original.

2. Despite not having the original parts/same specified parts the combination I used still kept the Robert Adams in the ground and functioning.

3. You are right Jess that by keeping the spring central it will stop it scraping down the sides and causing noise/creaking/scraping.

4. Most importantly of all.............

Sorry I am feeling a little jaded by my whole experience over the last 2.5 years so will keep some things to myself.




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    As there is so little information out there with regard to door closers, especially vintage and antique model floor springs, I thought I would start this blog.

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